I've read that chefs often
discuss over a drink late at night what their last meal would be, as a way of
finding out some essential truth about each other. Apparently the majority pick
something simple and homely and reminiscent of their mothers. Spanish chef
Ferran Adrià, of famed El Bulli restaurant, would go for pan-fried green
asparagus with olive oil and sea salt. English chef Jamie Oliver, a big bowl of
spaghetti. And acclaimed French chef Jacques Pépin, a good piece of bread and
some good butter. Good bread and butter has to be pretty high up on my list
too. We are fortunate to have two excellent artisan boulangeries close
by (one of which makes arguably the best baguette in France) and when we
bring the bread home in the morning, still warm and squishy and spread it
with a bit of unsalted butter, there is something so satisfying and soothing
and uncomplicated about it that it's hard to imagine anything better.
But my "death-row
meal", as my pal Mung and I call it (and for both of us it's the same),
would be crispy aromatic duck with pancakes. For this I would crawl over
broken glass just to lie in the shadow of someone preparing it.
I can remember the first time I
had it, in a little Chinese restaurant next to the King’s Theatre in Edinburgh,
the guest of two hotshot lawyers and their gangster client. I was a rookie
solicitor at the time and I was wearing a navy blue wool suit and dramatic red
lipstick, and I don't know whether it was the fanfare with which the whole
crispy fried duck arrived and was expertly shredded at the table with two
forks, or the tantalising aromatic smells of ginger and spices, or the frisson
of excitement (fear?) at being in the presence of a gangsta, but I ate with
audible relish and declared it the best thing to have ever passed my lips.
This version by Ken Hom
calls for a long marinade and steaming but don't be put off by the long
preparation process. The steps are all straightforward and can be done a day in
advance. The crispy skin and moist flavoursome meat wrapped in a pancake with
shredded spring onion and cucumber and a smear of Hoisin sauce is cosmic.